PREPARATION Washing the rice is an important part of the cooking process. Wash it at least 30 minutes before you start cooking. Put it into a large bowl, add lots of water, stir it around, and rub it with your hands so that the white starch comes out. Pour off the water and repeat, several times, until the water is clear. Then drain well and leave the rice in the colander for 30 minutes to 1 hour; or leave it to soak in the measured water.

TO COOK To cook the rice, choose a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. It is a good idea to wrap a clean tea towel around the lid; this makes the fit tighter and also traps the steam.

Put the rice and the measured water in the saucepan, cover, and bring to the boil over high heat. Simmer for 5 minutes over medium heat; then turn the heat to very low and leave the rice to steam for 15 minutes. Finally turn off the heat but leave the rice tightly covered on the stove for another 15 minutes, to make it fluffy--this too is an essential part of the process.

Once the cooking process has begun, try not to lift the lid at all, as this lets precious steam escape.

TO SERVE Keep the rice covered until you are ready to use it. Dampen a wooden rice paddle or wooden spoon and fluff it before serving. Rice is usually served plain, accompanied with pickles.