Wash the ham under cold water, scrubbing the skin with a stiff brush to remove any black pepper coating and mold. Many country hams are coated with black pepper, and the formation of mold is a natural result of the aging process.

Put the ham in a very large pot or tub or into a clean sink big enough so that it can be completely submerged in cold water. Soak the ham for 48 hours, changing the water 6 to 8 times to extract as much of the salt as possible. Drain and scrub the ham again to remove any remaining mold or pepper. Rinse the ham thoroughly.

Put the ham into a very large pot and cover it completely with cold water. Bring to a boil and discard the water. Refill the pot with water to cover the ham, bring the liquid to a boil, and again discard the water. Do this one more time. Finally, cover the ham again with cold water, bring it to a boil, and reduce the heat to barely a simmer. Take care not to let the water actually boil; it should read about 180°F on your instant-read thermometer. Poach the ham, uncovered, for 4 hours at a slow simmer.

Slice off a bit of ham and taste it. It should be firm but tender and palatable, and it will probably still be quite salty. You may need to cook it for 1 to 2 more hours, depending on its salt level and how long it was aged. Taste it from time to time to judge its progress.

At this point, you can let the ham cool in its poaching liquid, remove it, and wrap it loosely in foil and refrigerate it to bake and glaze the next day. Or you can bake and glaze it as follows. Discard the liquid.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the ham on a platter or clean work surface and carefully remove all the skin and any dark or discolored areas of the meat. Trim the fat, leaving a 1/8- to 1/4-inch layer, and score a crisscross grid across the top of the fat if you want. Place the ham in a foil-lined roasting pan, fat side up, and bake for 30 minutes. Or, if you have refrigerated the boiled ham, bake it for 1 hour.

Increase the heat to 425°F. Spread a generous layer of sugar over the ham and roast it for 20 to 30 minutes more, or until the surface is glazed and browned.

Place the ham on a cutting board or platter and let it rest, covered loosely with foil, for 20 to 45 minutes. Cut into thin slices. Serve warm or at room temperature. Leftover ham can be served cold or rewarmed. Thick slices of cooked country ham can be fried and served with steamed greens. The ham can also be used in any recipes calling for bacon or pancetta.