If you do not have a fish poacher or a large pan, cut the salmon into 2 or 3 pieces and place in a stovetop pan large enough to hold them without folding.

Pour on the wine and stock, adding water if necessary to cover the fish. Place parchment paper or a double thickness of wax paper on top of the fish.

Cover the pan and bring the liquid to a boil; reduce to a simmer and cook the fish according to the Canadian rule: measure the fish at its thickest point and cook 8 to 10 minutes to the inch.

The salmon will cook in about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat, uncover, and allow to cool in the liquid. Remove the skin; then cover the fish and chill overnight.

Serve with either one or both of the green sauces.