PREPARATION Crab sticks: Cut the crab sticks in half lengthways nearly all the way through and open them out.

Cucumber: Cut the cucumber in half lengthways and scrape out the seeds. Cut it into long, transparently thin strips, the same length as the crab sticks, and soak them in lightly salted water for 20 - 30 minutes. When you are ready to use, drain, rinse, and pat dry on paper toweling.

Ginger: Grate half the ginger on a fine grater, and cut the remaining half into threads. Soak the threads in cold water. Drain and squeeze well before use.

"Silk square" egg wrappers: Put the eggs and egg yolks into a jug and beat well. Stir in the sugar, potato starch or cornstarch, and salt.

Brush an 8 - 9 inch frying pan with a very little oil and heat over medium heat. When it is hot, pour in just enough egg to coat the pan in a thin even layer. As soon as the edges begin to curl and the surface is nearly dry, shake the pan and lift out the omelet with a pancake turner or tilt the pan and slide the omelet onto a plate. It should be soft and yellow and not brown, and can still be moist on top. Lay it flat to cool, spreading it gently if necessary.

Oil the pan again and continue until all the egg mixture is used. The quantities given should make 3 - 4 omelets.

Dressing: Mix the dressing ingredients in a small saucepan and bring just to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool to room temperature.

TO ASSEMBLE Take a bamboo rolling mat and lay 2 egg wrappers on it with the edges overlapping well to make a continuous sheet about 7 x 8 inches. Lay 2 opened crab sticks end to end, pink side down, along the front, about 1 inch away from the edge. Arrange some cucumber slices along the crab sticks and spread a little grated ginger on top. Place 2 more crab sticks on top, pink side up.

Holding the ingredients in place with your fingers, roll the egg around them, using the bamboo mat to help firm and shape the roll. Leaving the mat behind, complete the roll; brush the edge with a little beaten egg to seal it [see below]. Set aside to rest with the sealed edge downwards.

Repeat with the remaining egg wrappers, crab sticks, and cucumber. If you have time, it is helpful to put both rolls in the refrigerator for a few hours to firm.

TO SERVE With a sharp knife, trim the ends of each roll, then cut across into 8 slices. Arrange 3 or 5 (not 4) slices in small deep dark-colored bowls. Spoon over a little dressing and decorate with a few ginger threads.

A variation is to roll each completed egg roll in a sheet of dried nori seaweed. Brush the edge with beaten egg and sauté the roll in a dry frying pan for a few seconds to seal it and toast the nori. Cut the rolls into 8 slices each and serve.

To make another sort of rolled salad, lay strips of marinated flounder, carrot, shiitake mushrooms, omelet strips, and cucumber on white kombu seaweed and roll in the same way.