Have all ingredients at room temperature, p. 68° to 70°F, except for the eggs, which should be refrigerated until needed. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour one 10-inch fluted tube or Bundt pan.

Resift twice and return to the sifter: cake flour

Combine in a medium bowl and beat on high speed until thick and pale yellow, 2 to 3 minutes: egg yolks, sugar, salt, water, vanilla

In a large bowl, beat on medium speed until soft peaks form: egg whites and cream of tartar

Gradually add, beating on high speed: sugar

Beat until the peaks are almost stiff but not dry. Use a rubber spatula to fold one-quarter of the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture, then scrape the mixture back into the bowl with the remaining whites and fold together. Sift one-quarter of the flour over the mixture at a time and fold in just until incorporated. Fold in: lemon juice and zest

Scrape the batter into the pan and spread evenly. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Let cool in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes. Rotate and tap the pan against the counter to loosen the cake on all sides. Invert onto the rack and let cool completely.