Break the eggs into the bowl, adding salt and pepper to taste, and beat just to blend yolks and whites.

Set the frying pan over moderately low heat and add enough butter to film the bottom and sides; pour in all but 2 tablespoons of the beaten eggs. Slowly scrape the bottom of the pan from the edges toward the center with the spatula, continuing slowly as the eggs gradually coagulate - it will take them a minute or so to start thickening - don't rush them. In 2 to 3 minutes or so the eggs will have thickened into a softly lumpy custard - cook them a few seconds longer if they are too soft for your taste. herbs.

Fold in the 2 tablespoons of beaten egg, to cream the scramble. Carefully correct seasoning and, if you wish, fold in a tbsp or so additional butter and/or cream, and the optional

Serve at once a warm (not hot) plates. Accompany with, for instance, bacon or sausage or ham broiled tomatoes, and buttered toast wedges.