To sear ham: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Score ham's exposed top fat in a diamond pattern and place (fat side up) on a sturdy wire rack inside a sturdy, nonreactive roasting pan. Roast until ham just starts to turn golden, about 1 hour.

To glaze ham: In a small bowl, mix together brown sugar, mustard and apricot jam. Remove ham from oven (leave oven on and remove from rack. Pour out any accumulated fat from bottom of pan. Pour pineapple juice onto bottom of pan and place ham directly on top of juice (again fat side up). Using a rubber spatula, spread 2/3 of the prepared glaze mixture over the entire exposed surface of the ham.

To roast ham: Insert a meat thermometer deeply into ham in its thickest spot on top (but don't allow stem to touch bone). Return ham to oven and roast until the thermometer reaches 120°F, about 2 hours for a boneless ham and 1-1/2 hours for a ham with bone. Spread on the remaining glaze, covering completely. Return ham to oven and continue to roast until ham is piping hot throughout and the outside is crusty and deeply caramelized. The meat thermometer should read 137°F. A 14-pound ham (with bone) will take approximately 3 hours in a regular conventional oven, including the initial searing time. The glaze on the finished ham will become very shiny with a deep, intensely dark color, but it should not be black.

To remove from oven: When ham is almost done, bring a kettle of water up to boil and let simmer until needed. Carefully transfer ham from oven to your carving board to settle for 15 minutes or longer before slicing and serving. Immediately pour boiling water over the interior of the baking pan to facilitate cleaning by loosening fallen candied glaze.

To slice and serve: Don't worry about slicing with or against the grain. Slice thinly in the direction that gives you the largest slice with the least interference from the bone. Serve hot, warm or chilled (not cold) with assorted mustards or mustard sauce.